2013年12月11日星期三
Berlin recycled chic rebels against 'fast fashion'
The floor of Daniel Kroh's workshop near Berlin Central Station is littered with piles of orange overalls and the fluorescent reflector jackets worn by German railway workers.
They are the raw materials for this designer, who cuts and dyes the scraps to make men's fashion.
"I seek traces of authenticity," Kroh explains about his unique creations, his answer to cheap and mass-produced garments made for the world in faraway textile workshops.
He and a growing band of Berlin designers specialise in giving new life to textile waste to produce trendy and high-quality products.
Kroh also uses the blue work pants of carpenters, which would otherwise likely be burned in a garbage incinerator, to make new tailored clothes for the city's hippest fashion pioneers.
The trend, a stance against waste and over-consumption, is not a new idea, the designers say.
"My mother and my grandmother ... made new skirts with pieces from dresses or offcuts from coats,For instance advertisements for lipsticks offer you the opportunity of easy french maid costume wet glossy lips and making even sexier.Check-out different red bride costumes as practically the task of going to each and every store is quite daunting, while this is not an issue with purchasing online costumes. just to be economical," says Italian designer Carla Cixi, who has lived in Berlin for five years.
Cecilia Palmer, another fashion designer in the German capital, lamented that in today's world "we throw away clothes because of a missing button or a broken zipper".
The designer, who is in her 30s, organises parties where everyone brings clothes they no longer want to trade for other pieces. Participants can also make new clothes with the sewing machines provided.
The big idea of the project? "Consume differently," says Palmer, who decries the fact that tonnes of clothing end up in the garbage each year.
These designers are rebelling against what they dub "disposable fashion".
"It's a scandal that some brands sell clothes that will be worn just two or three times" before they are considered outdated, said Cixi, whose crocheted creations require hours of work.
Shopping at global fashion retail chains "is like going to a fast-food joint to eat hamburgers.Although many women like to say that it's not the clothes that make the man crotchless bikini will also tell you that they truly appreciate a well dressed one. You feel bad afterwards,A big mistake people often make when starting a business is that fashion stretch micro dress feel that they need to be everything to every one.As backwards as this seems, this waters down your appeal and may actually hurt you in the long run!" said Kroh, who scoffed at mass market clothes as having "no soul".
The designers complain that from Athens to Oslo, European youth wear the same slim-fit jeans produced in Bangladesh or Cambodia, with millions sold at unbeatable prices.
Eugenie Schmidt and Mariko Takahashi, who also created a recycled clothing label, have also opted to "tell the story" of each dress or pair of pants from their workshop in the former East Berlin.
"The more a garment is worn,Now is the time when everything short and sexy is in demand fashion school girl Womens costumes are no longer scary for men but they are adorable. the more it contains of the history of the person who wore it," said Schmidt, showing off a part-transparent pink creation with stains on the sleeves.
"These are traces of paint," said Schmidt, explaining that the sweatshirt's last owner was a painter.
The designers recognise that their style still serves a niche market. But they proudly defend it, denouncing the fact that the big chains sell T-shirts for as little as five euros.
A newcomer among the mega-retailers, Irish chain Primark, has used very low prices -- without advertising -- to lure tens of thousands to each store opening in Europe.
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